PICK OF THE LITTER
by Deborah Jones, Ph.D.
If you are looking for a puppy, the most dangerous
thing you can do is to go and see a litter 'just to take a look'.
Once you are actually in the presence of those fuzzy, squirmy,
cute little creatures, all your common sense goes right out the
window. It's as if you become unable to make logical, rational
decisions. It's also difficult to impossible to walk away empty-handed.
After experiencing a few moments of 'puppy love' most people don't
want to go home alone. This is what causes people to make poor
choices when choosing a puppy. Puppies are so sweet and appealing
and we get caught up in the excitement of the moment. Rather than
making a clear, considered, objective decision with our heads,
we make an emotional one with our hearts.
The most important thing to remember when you
are considering bringing a puppy into your home is that you are
making a long-term commitment to another living creature. You
may be sharing your life with this pet for the next 15 years,
so it's important to choose very, very carefully. This is your
chance to actually choose a family member, rather than taking
whatever you get. A quick, ill-considered decision can lead to
much heartache and unhappiness. However, a good choice can add
much enjoyment and happiness to your life for years to come. So,
the key question is, how do you make a good choice? That's what
this chapter is about; choosing the right puppy for you.
Temperament Tests
After doing background research you have probably
narrowed your focus down to one or two breeds or types of dogs.
Now you may actually be going to talk to some breeders and look
at some litters. At this point, your goal is to find the absolutely
perfect puppy for you and your lifestyle. Pups of the same breed,
even within the same litter, can be very, very different from
one another. One way to make an educated decision is to complete
a series of simple behavioral tests on the puppies you are considering.
Their responses to these tests will help you narrow down your
choices.
Puppy temperament tests have been around for
some time. The purpose of such testing is twofold. First, to gain
information about the pup's current personality and behavior.
These tests can help to determine how active, bold, or curious
the puppy is at the moment. Second, to make predictions about
how the puppy may behave as an adult. These types of tests were
first used by those who were breeding and raising 'service' dogs
to help them decide which puppies were likely to be successful
in their future work. For most pet owners, the purpose of puppy
testing is to determine whether this pup is the right 'fit' for
the owner's lifestyle.
Temperament tests are thought to indicate some
of the personality traits and behavioral tendencies that the adult
dog will possess. The term temperament refers to inborn tendencies.
Temperament can be thought of as the raw material that is inherited
by the puppy from the parents. It gives behavior a slight 'push'
in a certain direction, but isn't the only determinant of how
your dog will act as an adult. Temperament combines with environment
and learning to form the actual behavior of the dog. However,
to have the best chance at a successful relationship with your
dog, it helps to know and understand his basic temperament.
If possible, try to see the parents or other
close relatives of the puppy. While their behavior is individual
and based on their environment and training as well as on their
temperament, you can still gain some important information by
seeing them. Because of the close genetic relatedness between
the pup, his parents, and his siblings, you can get a basic idea
of possible adult personality by seeing his close adult relatives.
Besides personality characteristics, you can also get an idea
of your pup's eventual size and coat.
In humans, two characteristics that seem to
be strong temperamental tendencies are activity level and level
of shyness/outgoingness. It is possible that this is true in dogs
as well. Very early in life you can see real differences in these
characteristics between individuals. For most pet owners, a dog
who is moderate on both of these characteristics would be the
best choice. A dog whose falls in the mid-range on these characteristics
would be best-suited to most homes: not hyperactive, not a couch
potato, not a wallflower, not a social butterfly. For those who
want performance dogs for work or sport, it might be desirable
to choose a dog who is likely to have a higher level of these
characteristics, depending on the intended activity.
In attempting to predict a puppy's possible
future behavior from his test scores we are performing what psychologists
call an aptitude test. Aptitude tests measure the likelihood that
the animal will be successful in his intended function. In humans,
aptitude tests are used to measure the probability that advanced
training in a particular area will be useful. For example, tests
can be given to help people learn more about their talents and
skills when deciding on career training. An aptitude test may
indicate that you would be best suited for training as a surgeon
or a teacher or an actor. In temperament testing puppies, we are
typically trying to determine their aptitude to be good family
companions and screen out those who will not.
What Makes a Good Pet Dog?
Before we begin puppy testing, we need to consider
the characteristics that make a dog a good pet and companion.
These are the characteristics we should test for. First, even
though it seems obvious, we want a dog who is comfortable around
people and who is reasonably friendly. It's important to keep
this critical characteristic in mind. Puppies who are shy may
become fear aggressive later on. Puppies who are overwhelmingly
needy and clingy will have trouble adjusting to being alone, even
for short periods. Puppies who are very pushy and domineering
can end up frightening or harming people.
Second, we want a dog who reacts to new or unusual
events with reasonable caution, but who is also curious and confident.
Strange things will happen to your dog. People dressed in unusual
clothing or costumes may bend over to pet him. Someone may push
a rattling baby carriage towards him. Children will run up behind
him screaming and yelling. In any of these cases, and in many
others, we want a dog who reacts appropriately. If a puppy's first
reaction is to snap, growl, or bite, someone will be hurt eventually.
While it is acceptable, and reasonable, for a puppy to be startled
by unusual events, he should recover from them quickly. Given
a bit of recovery time, a pup with a stable personality should
approach and investigate the source of the startle.
Third, we want a puppy who can accept being
handled and restrained as needed. Throughout their lives, dogs
need to be comfortable with human contact and manipulation. They
will need veterinary care, grooming, and day to day handling.
It's no fun to live with a dog who is 'touchy'. Dogs who react
to normal touch with undue fear or undue aggression will not make
good family pets. They may always require careful and special
handling.
Finally, we want a puppy who enjoys learning
and is relatively easy to train. A puppy who is curious and interested
in the world around him, but able to focus on one task at a time,
will be fairly trainable. It also helps to have a puppy who enjoys
a wide variety of food treats and toys (these can be used as rewards
during training).
Breed & Type Characteristics
While all dogs of a particular breed or type
are not the same, they may have some similar behavioral tendencies.
When testing puppies, it is important to keep in mind some of
the more common responses for the breed or type. For example,
herding dogs (Border Collies, Shetland Sheepdogs, Belgian Sheepdogs,
etc.) tend to be more reactive to sight and sound than some other
types. They may display a more pronounced reaction. Be careful
of overly sensitive or fearful dogs of this type. Also, herding
dogs can tend to be noisy and barky. Avoid very vocal herding
dog puppies.
Dogs who have been bred to be guardians and
protectors tend to be a bit more serious than some others (Rottweilers,
Dobermans, etc.) They may be bold and extremely confident. Be
aware that these tendencies can, at an exaggerated level, become
pushiness and obnoxiousness. Dogs like this tend to 'take over'
if given an opportunity. The boldest, most confident puppy of
this type is not necessarily a good choice for the average pet
owner.
Small, toy breeds can have a tendency to be
barky and snappy. Do not choose a toy dog who is fearful and unsure.
This dog will not be a good companion, and may become a fear biter
over time.
Most retrieving dogs are energetic and active.
Make sure your physical health and lifestyle allows you the time
and energy for this type of dog. Also be aware that these dogs
can be physically dangerous to young children and frail or older
people. In their excitement and exhuberance, they are not aware
of their own strength. A retriever needs to learn physical limits
and self-control at a young age.
Whenever you are testing or evaluating a dog,
keep in mind the characteristics typical of his breed and type.
Preparing for the Test
Most currently available puppy temperament tests
attempt to measure the same general personality and behavioral
factors. These include (in no particular order):
1. Sociability and following (desire to be with
humans)
2. Curiousity about novel events
3. Shyness/Outgoingness
4. Reaction to and ability to recover from surprise/startle
5. Desire to work with people
6. Reaction to restraint/discomfort/handling
7. Desire to chase and fetch (prey drive)
8. Trainability
9. Physical activity level
Most trainers and breeders agree that the ideal
age for temperament testing is around seven to eight weeks of
age. Puppies much younger don't have the mental and physical development
necessary to complete the tests. It's possible to test older dogs
and puppies, but keep in mind that the older animal has already
had learning experiences which may influence the results.
You'll probably be performing your puppy testing
at the breeder's home. You'll need to have a few pieces of equipment
available, as well as some open floor space for the testing. To
prepare for the testing you will need:
A set of keys.
A small squeaky toy or a small ball.
An umbrella.
A towel and a 6 ft. piece of string or rope.
Small, soft food treats.
Pieces of different colored soft yarn or ribbon (one for each
puppy tested).
Copies of the test (one for each puppy tested) & a pencil.
Watch with a second hand or a stopwatch.
Each puppy should be tested individually, out
of sight and hearing of his or her litter mates and other pets
in the household. The day of the testing should be a calm, quiet
one for the puppies. Puppies should not have grooming, veterinary
care, or any other exciting activity on that day. Try to test
the puppies when they are at their most active, before a meal.
Begin testing each puppy by taking him or her
to the testing area. Loosely tie one of the colored strings around
the puppy's neck or on the collar and note the color on your score
sheet. Also note the sex of the puppy and any distinguishing or
unusual physical features of the pup. To make your test a valid
one, handle each puppy in the same exact way throughout the testing
procedure. Perform each test and mark down the results before
moving on to the next test. Make any comments on unusual behavior
or reactions at the bottom of the sheet.
When observing the puppy's reaction to each
test, you are relying on your interpretation of the pup's behavior.
This can be a difficult judgement call. For example, it is sometimes
hard to tell the beginnings of aggression from extreme playfulness.
A thorough understanding of canine behavior and body language
can be quite useful here. If you are not sure how to categorize
the response, retest while having a knowledgeable dog person observe
(breeder or trainer).
A good breeder can also be an excellent resource
for further information about the puppies and their normal behavior.
Listen carefully to the breeder's advice.
*A note on scoring. For each test the puppy
can score low (1), moderate (2), or high (3). A low score indicates
either an extreme reaction in either direction. For example, the
puppy either does not react at all, or wildly overreacts. A moderate
score indicates an acceptable and expected reaction. A high score
indicates an ideal reaction.
THE TESTS
1. Activity & Curiousity Level.
Place the puppy in the middle of the testing
area. Watch him without interference or interaction for at least
2 minutes. If the puppy approaches you, be still and ignore him.
SCORING:
Low score (1). Puppy does not move about
or explore the environment. Puppy actively avoids you. Puppy displays
extremely high level of activity by running wildly and/or jumping.
Moderate score (2). Puppy remains still
for a few moments, then slowly begins to sniff and/or move about.
Puppy approaches you or objects in the room cautiously.
High score (3). Puppy confidently moves
about, exploring the new area. Puppy sniffs objects and may physically
interact with them. For example, putting front paws up on a chair
to further investigate. Puppy may approach you and attempt to
gain attention.
2. Social Attraction.
Take the puppy into the testing area and
set him on the floor. Move at least 10 feet away, kneel down,
clap your hands, and call "here puppy, puppy" in a happy,
inviting voice.
SCORING:
Low score (1). Puppy ignores you, attempts
to hide, approaches slightly then retreats, looks around frantically,
tries to escape testing area.
Moderate score (2). Puppy approaches you
slowly and cautiously, but deliberately.
High score (3). Puppy quickly and happily
runs to you with tail up and wagging.
3. Following.
Quickly move away from the puppy, calling
and encouraging him to follow. Move at least 10 feet away.
SCORING:
Low score (1). Puppy runs in other direction,
ignores you, sits still and watches you without moving, sniffs
the ground. Puppy runs to you and jumps on you, growling and/or
nipping.
Moderate score (2). Puppy cautiously moves
towards you but may not actually reach you. Puppy shows great
interest, but is slightly cautious in approaching.
High score (3). Puppy quickly and enthusiastically
runs after you. Puppy may jump up on you in excitement.
4. Restraint.
While sitting on the floor, entice the puppy
close to you and wrap your arms around his chest, gently preventing
him from moving away. Hold puppy for 30 seconds.
SCORING:
Low score (1). The puppy panics and struggles
violently. Puppy scratches and/or attempts to bite. Release the
puppy immediately! Puppy trembles and shakes the entire time you
hold him.
Moderate score (2). Puppy struggles initially,
but quickly relaxes in your arms.
High score (3). Puppy immediately relaxes
in your arms. Puppy may lick you and voluntarily move closer.
5. Handling.
While sitting on the floor, stroke and pet
puppy. Puppy may be held in your lap or on the floor close to
you. Gently stroke the head and ears, down the spine, the tail,
and each leg and foot. You may talk softly to the dog during this
test.
SCORING:
Low score (1). Puppy actively resists and
attempts to escape. Puppy attempts to bite or nip. Release the
puppy immediately! Puppy remains still, but stiff. Puppy trembles
and shakes.
Moderate score (2). Puppy intially resists,
but quickly relaxes. Puppy may have one or two 'sensitive' areas,
but does not actively object to the handling.
High score (3). Puppy relaxes and allows
all handling. Puppy seems to enjoy the attention.
6. Sound Sensitivity.
When the puppy is not looking at you, drop
a set of keys at least 12 feet behind him.
SCORING:
Low score (1). Puppy jumps, shakes, trembles.
Puppy attempts to run and hide. Puppy attacks the keys growling
and biting (the puppy seems intensely focused and his body is
stiff, his tail may be held straight up). Puppy barks uncontrollably.
Moderate score (2). Puppy startles, but
recovers within 20 seconds. Puppy looks, but does not approach
the keys or approaches keys very cautiously.
High score (3). Puppy startles, but recovers
within 10 seconds. Puppy approaches and investigates keys (sniffing
and/or pawing) without fear.
7. Sight Sensitivity.
Tie a string or rope around the towel. Quickly
pull the towel on a string across the floor in front of the puppy.
Once puppy moves towards the towel, stop pulling and let it be
still.
SCORING:
Low score (1). Puppy looks at towel, but
shows no active interest. Puppy does not move towards the towel.
Puppy runs or backs away from the towel. Puppy viciously attacks
the towel, growling, barking and/or biting. The puppy's body is
stiff. His tail may be held upright and still, or he may make
quick jerky motions with it.
Moderate score (2). Puppy approaches the
moving towel. Puppy may grab and shake the towel. Puppy ignores
towel once it stops moving.
High score (3). Puppy playfully and enthusiastically
chases and grabs the towel. He may jump and pounce. Puppy may
continue to play with the towel once it stops moving.
8. Fetch Test.
Show the puppy a ball or squeaky toy. In
a pinch, a wadded up piece of paper will do. Attract the puppy's
attention to the object by bounding the ball, squeaking the toy,
or crumpling the paper. Make sure the puppy is paying attention
to the object before it is thrown. Throw the object 6 to 8 feet
in front of the puppy and verbally encourage him to "get
it!"
SCORING:
Low score (1). Puppy completely ignores
thrown object. Puppy watches object, but does not show any interest
in moving towards it. Puppy seems fearful of object. Puppy approaches
object and guards or protects it with a stiff stance and possible
growling.
Moderate score (2). Puppy shows interest
in object. Puppy begins to approach thrown object, then stops.
Puppy approaches and investigates thrown object.
High score (3). Puppy shows great interest
in thrown object. Puppy chases object and picks it up. Puppy may
run around the room or return towards the tester with the object.
9. Reaction to Surprise/Startle.
About 6 feet away, and slightly to the side
of the puppy, open an umbrella and place it on the floor. DO NOT
approach the puppy with the open umbrella or wave it at him.
SCORING:
Low score (1). Puppy runs in fright. Puppy
seems 'frozen' and stiff. Puppy attacks umbrella while barking
or growling. Puppy backs away from umbrella while barking or growling.
Puppy does not startle, but does not show any interest in the
umbrella either.
Moderate score (2). Puppy startles at first,
but recovers within 20 seconds. Puppy shows interest in the umbrella,
and may approach cautiously.
High score (3). Puppy startles at first,
but recovers within 10 seconds. Puppy shows great interest in
the umbrella and approaches without fear.
10. Trainability.
Have several small, soft food treats in
your hand. Feed several to the puppy. Then show him a treat and
hold it slightly over his head. Next, show him a treat and hold
it on the floor in your fingers.
SCORING:
Low score (1). Puppy ignores food treats.
Puppy does not follow the movement of the treats with his eyes.
Puppy moves away from the tester and the treats.
Moderate score (2). Puppy shows interest
in food treats, but loses it quickly. Puppy follows food treats
with his eyes. Puppy moves slightly towards food treats, but may
become distracted. Puppy nips, jumps, and/or scratches at your
hand in an attempt to get the treats.
High score (3). Puppy quickly and enthusiastically
approaches the food treats. Puppy follows the food treats with
his eyes and body. Puppy focuses intently on the hand holding
the treats.
*Note: If the puppy shows no interest in
the food treats, re-test using a squeaky toy.
SCORE SHEET SCORE
SEX __________
COLOR __________
MARKINGS ____________________
Test #1 (Activity & Curiousity Level).
_______
Test #2. (Social Attraction). _______
Test #3. (Following). _______
Test #4. (Restraint). _______
Test #5. (Handling). _______
Test #6. (Sound Sensitivity). _______
Test #7. (Sight Sensitivity). _______
Test #8. (Fetch Test). _______
Test #9. (Reaction to Startle/Surprise). _______
Test #10. (Trainability). _______
TOTAL SCORE: _______
COMMENTS:
Interpreting the Score:
Each puppy's score can range from a low of 10
to a high of 30. The higher the score, the more ideal the puppy's
responses on the tests.
10-14 No way! This puppy will NOT make a good
companion. All his responses are inappropriate.
15-19 Low. This puppy's reactions are slightly
better, but not great. He will require lots of work and effort,
and may never have appropriate reactions and behaviors.
20-24 Average. While the responses are in the
normal range, this puppy may need some extra effort, so may be
best for an experienced owner.
25-30 Great! This puppy had appropriate and
ideal responses to the tests. He should make a good family companion.
Conclusions
While puppy testing is not a strict scientific
endeavor, it can be very helpful for making a decision about which
puppy to adopt. Keep in mind that puppies can test differently
on different days, or even at different times of day. If you are
unsure about a particular puppy, repeat the test in a day or so.
The current owner or breeder can provide more information by answering
questions about the puppy's normal and usual behavior and personality
as well.
Remember, adopting a puppy is a big committment
of time, energy, and money. Make your choice wisely and thoughtfully.
The right pup for you is out there. Don't be in a big rush. Take
your time. A good choice will bring you enjoyment for many years.
For Further Reading
The following resources contain information
about puppy temperament tests:
Bartlett, Melissa. A Novice Looks at Puppy Aptitude
Testing. From the American Kennel Club Gazette. (March, 1979).
Bartlett, Melissa. Puppy Aptitude Testing. From
the American Kennel Club Gazette. (March, 1985).
Campbell, William. Behavior Problems in Dogs,
3rd ed. 1999. Behavior Systems.
Clothier, Suzanne. Understanding Puppy Testing.
1996. Flying Dog Press.
Coren, Stanley. The Intelligence of Dogs. 1994.
The Free Press.
Pfaffenberger, Clarence. The New Knowledge of
Dog Behavior. 1963. Howell Book House.
Scott, John Paul & Fuller, John. L. Genetics
and the Social Behavior of the Dog. 1965. The University of Chicago
Press.
Tamases Fisher, Gail & Volhard, Wendy.
Puppy Personality Profile. From the American Kennel Club Gazette.
(February, 1987).
Back to
Articles Index
© 2005 K9inFocus.com
Built and Maintained by Pet
Web Designs
Home
| About | Books
& Videos | Reviews | Workshops
| Calendar | Seminar
Contact Form | Photos | Articles
